Darktable for android10/8/2023 Once I uploaded the photos to iNat, I realized that the coordinates were correct, but that there wasn’t anything in the accuracy field. I figured it out with some Googling though. That was a little less simple to just start using right away since that program has lots of options and isn’t as newbie friendly. I also installed GeoSetter on my computer to put the GPS data into the photo metadata after verifying the timestamps were in sync. I’d also installed GPS Essentials, but found that one had too much going on for a total geotagging newbie to just fire it up and start using it right away. I used it for the first time yesterday and it worked great… very easy to use and it didn’t drain the battery much at all. If the first photo is the picture of the clock on my gps it’s very easy to get it right. Picasa has a nice feature that lets you adjust the time of a group of photos by setting the actual time of the first photo and it calculates the difference and applies it to the rest. I use Picmeta Photo Tracker to geotag after I’ve adjusted the photo times in Picasa. The Holux will also run for about 36 hours on a single rechargeable AA battery, my phone can’t even come close in remote areas where it’s struggling to find a signal. I’ve been keeping track and my Pentax K-x clock drifts about 30 seconds per month while the K-70 clock drifts by about 10 seconds per month. It has a display that shows the time to seconds so I can sync my photo times very accurately by taking a photo of the clock. I have several small gps loggers but my favorite is the Holux M-241. This allows me to map multiple species in a single survey even when they partially overlap. By having my full track I can buffer it to make a survey polygon and then I buffer the appropriate photo locations to make an “occupied” polygon. I have been using the DSLR / GPS combination for several years as a way of mapping rare plants.
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